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One of the best pieces of advice I was ever given in regards to buying a classic muscle car was to invest in high quality resource materials so I could crack the code on Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) to make sure that I was not getting scammed.

The best way to find a high quality book is to find what the experts are using. With the internet, you can type a subject like Camaro restoration book into the Amazon search box. You can also Google it and follow the links, which will take you to various forums and websites. Chevrolet by the Numbers, by Alvin Colvin, is the best book I have ever found for Chevrolet part numbers, Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN), trim tags, and model ID. The book is an easy read, with chapters designated to the different components. Again, I used this process in my quest to purchase a rare Camaro. Just Google the car you are looking for and follow the links. The best resources will be obvious.

Here is a list of objects you will need when decoding your car.

Small flashlight, notebook, resource or reference book, mechanics mirror, pen or pencil, cordless or corded droplight, floor jack and jack-stands, coveralls, rags, brass wire brush, brake cleaner, yellow or white colored grease pencil, digital camera or camcorder.

If you are continuing to read this information, I can only surmise that buying a classic muscle car with the proper numbers and matching parts is important to you! Good! It should be! If this is true, I will walk you through an example of decoding a car. This will give you an idea of what it takes to properly decode a car.

Be prepared to take your time. I also discovered a sure fire way to determine who your true friends are. Ask them to go along to help you decode a car! Having an extra body can sometimes cut your time in half. I also recommend finding an expert or consultant on your car, and buying a couple of hours their time, especially if you are looking to purchase a special model classic car. It’s been my experience that an extra set of eyes can only help the cause. I found an expert through one of my reference books. Prior to me going to look at my current car, I spent about an hour talking with him, and making a list of things I should be looking for. (Of course, if you want someone to handle the process from A to Z, services are available. This is a great option if you are buying the car from remote.)

The Process

Before I arrived the owner told me the car was basically a roller project, meaning the engine and transmission were removed from the car. The engine, transmission and other components were placed in a pile where it would be easy to look at the numbers. The owner also claimed it was a limited edition Camaro, yet he didn’t have any paperwork like an original order invoice, or a protect o plate (a special metal plate shaped like a credit card that is used for warranty and repair services). This type of paperwork trail eliminates the need for further documentation. If you do not have this type of paperwork, then follow along. When I arrived at the location where the car was stored, the first thing I did was to check the VIN number. The VIN number is probably the most important number on a car. If you do not know how to decode a VIN on a particular Chevrolet, you will be unable to verify other components or numbers. What is nice about the book is it actually walks you through the whole decoding process, including providing the specific numbers location. As a sidebar, any good resource book on your particular make and model car will outline the way to decode your car, including number locations and decoding info. On 1968 and 1969 Camaros, the VIN number is located on the top of the dash board, on the drivers side. The number is visible through the windshield. I wiped the dirt and dust off of the VIN tag, and copied the numbers into my notebook.

VIN number

I was able to determine that my car was originally a V8, it was a 2 door sport coupe, made in 1969, assembled in Norwood Ohio, and it was the 662,8XXrd car built at that plant in that year.

Trim tag.

In 1969, all Camaro trim tags were located in the engine compartment, riveted on the upper left hand corner of the firewall. I took my rag and cleaned all of the dust and gunk off of the trim tag. Since the numbers were not that clear, I recleaned the trim tag, and removed the rest of the gunk. I used my flashlight to illuminate the numbers, and then copied the numbers into my notebook. Some of the trim tag numbers matched up with the VIN tag numbers, which was a good sign. The remaining numbers indicated that my car body was number 353,XXX to come down this plant’s assembly line. The interior was originally a standard black interior, and the car was built in the first week of June, 1969. The car was originally painted dusk blue and it was equipped with a spoiler package and a chrome trim package. So far everything was lining up. The reason for all of this detail is to illustrate how you can confirm that what you think you are buying is exactly what you are getting.

Before I move on, I want to share how this is relevant. A husband and wife from my car club went to look at a Chevelle. The car was advertised as a Super Sport. During the inspection process, and referencing the above book, they uncovered a number of inconsistencies. According to the numbers, the car had originally started out as a plain Jane 6 cylinder car. The car was now painted a different color, had a different color interior and a different engine. You get the picture. Over the years, one (or more) of the previous owners modified the car and tried to make it into a Super Sport. The point is it may have not been done maliciously, but the car still did not start out as a true Super Sport. And having the Super Sport option obviously raises the value of the car.

Engine code identification.

The engine is stamped in (2) places on a 69 Camaro. One is on the right front engine pad. The other location is on the rough casting portion on the rear of the engine, just above the oil filter. Again I wiped off the areas I just described with brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. You need to have a clean surface, and normally brake cleaner will do the trick. The front engine pad numbers appeared to have been restamped at one time, maybe after the engine block was decked (Decking in a machine process to check the flatness of the block deck for irregularities that cause compression and water leaks.) The tricky part is reading the numbers on the area above the oil filter. I recommend a really bright light and a magnifying glass. If that doesn’t do it, then I suggest taking a little muriatic acid an applying it to the numbers. This should make the numbers readable. The reason this number is sometimes hard to decipher is because these engines were hand stamped, and punched onto a rough surface. According to the numbers, I determined the engine was a 425 horsepower high performance engine, with a 4 speed manual transmission. The last numbers also corresponded with the last numbers in my VIN, which meant this was the original engine to this car. The numbers told me the engine was assembled June 14, which fell in line with the build date. The engine block part number that is cast into the rear of the block was cleaned with a rag and brake cleaner as well. The block part number indicated ahigh performance block used for Camaros. Another piece of the puzzle confirmed.

Rear axle identification.

The numbers on a Camaro rear axle are stamped on the top of the right axle tube. My experience has been that this area is normally pretty crusty and rusty. And this rear axle was no exception. After considerable wire brushing, I wiped the area clean with brake cleaner. Laying on my back, I shone the light on the area, while holding a mirror. It still wasn’t clear enough for me to read accurately. I then took my grease pencil, and ran it over the numbers. The purpose of the grease pencil is to provide contrast with the metal of the axle tube. When I put the mirror back over the area, I was rewarded with a very sharp image of the part numbers, which I copied into my notebook. According to the numbers, this rear axle assembly had a 4.10:1 gear ratio, limited slip. The axle was assembled June 16, 1969. Are you seeing a pattern starting to appear here? The axle numbers also indicated the axle to be original to the car based on the dates codes referencing June 1969 build date. I took the same approach with the other parts.

Here are my findings. The cylinder heads, intake manifold, carburetor, and transmission were the correct part numbers for the car. However none of these parts were date coded to the car. One of the heads was manufactured in April 1968, the other head was manufactured in February of 1969. The transmission was manufactured Jan 24th 1969. The reason I know all of these parts are not correctly date coded to the car is I decoded each one, by researching the part numbers, and date codes. All of this information is important, because not only did it verify what the owner had told me, and it also showed that the other parts were in line with the build date. Thereby providing further confirmation of what I was looking at. During my investigating, I took pictures with a digital camera of all of the parts and part numbers, as best as i could. I spent about 30 minutes walking around the car with a video camera and editorializing what I was taking footage of. I also took the list of things the Camaro expert had told me about and checked them off one by one. Later in the week I called the Camaro expert and shared my findings. I reviewed all of my research, including going over the individual part numbers, and the “things to look for” checklist. By the end of the phone call, I was 99 percent positive that this Camaro was what it was being advertised as.

The last thing I did was to have the car documented and certified by a Certified Camaro appraiser.

GM also stamped hidden VIN numbers in (2) different places on the car. The reason for the hidden VIN numbers was to add another step in preventing and identifying a stolen car. Because it is fairly easy to remove and swap out the VIN tag on the dash, the hidden VIN’s provided a back-up system of check and balances. For example, someone could possibly swap out a VIN tag, but if they didn’t know about the Hidden VIN numbers, a person in the know could easily identify the numbers not matching up. Because the car was bought a roller project, it was easy to check these hidden VIN’s, against the VIN tag on the dash. I wanted the appraiser to check them personally, and he confirmed the numbers as matching and authentic. In other words the certificate authenticates the car. Many appraisers will also supply you with a report on their findings. The nice thing about having a car certified is this type of paperwork is normally viewed as iron clad documentation. It normally raises the value of the car, because of the authenticity certificate. And if you ever go to sell the car, now you have documentation to provide the seller that the car is a real (Super Sport, Rally Sport, Z/28, etc. You fill in the blank)

Some people may wonder why would anyone go through all of this work.

However, keep in mind that many of these muscle cars are 20 plus years old and have gone through numerous owners and modifications. All of that history is prior to it being restored back to showroom original condition. In other words, many parts are bolt on and interchangeable from other models and different years. So just because the parts look ok, doesn’t mean that they even belong on the car. In the above example about the couple and the Chevelle, the car was priced as a Super Sport, yet the trim tag and other numbers reflected a totally different story. Even though the car was beautifully restored, it was really nothing more than a modified 6 cylinder, base model Chevelle that someone converted over to a V-8 at some time in it’s life. Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with modifying a car to an individual owners taste. The issue is when the car is sold and the seller forgets to mention (consciously or unconsciously) and inform the new owner of the modifications. Our Chevelle couple would have gladly paid the asking price if the car was a true Super Sport. But, because they knew how to decode the car, they were able to save themselves a lot of time, money and aggravation. At the time the difference between a plain Jane Chevelle and a real Super Sport was over $10,000. Just to throw some numbers out there, let’s be conservative and say it takes 6 hours of research to decode a car. Using our $10,000 figure, that equates to approximately $1,600 an hour. Not a bad return on your time investment. As muscle and classic cars have become more popular, I have seen many cases where just for the fun of it, an owner will start to do research on a car he or she owns.

Discovering your car isn’t really what you thought you purchased can really knock the wind out of you. By investing a small amount of money, and time, in researching and decoding your prospective muscle car purchase you can sleep at night knowing that you received the value you paid for. Anyone else interested in investing a couple of hours for peace of mind when purchasing a classic or muscle car???

Don’t want to deal with all these issues yourself? The experts at Your Dream Car Finder can manage the entire process.

Tim Leary is a freelance writer and management consultant that helps individuals and companies exceed their goals. Tim can be reached at tleary@custombumperstickermaker.com

Small engines are used on many types of outdoor power equipment including lawnmowers, snowblowers, tillers, trimmers, chainsaws and blowers. From time to time these engines require service. When this happens, should you attempt to fix the problem yourself or should you instead take the machine to a local repair shop?

There are some good reasons to consider repairing your own small engine. Most repair shops charge a fee just to look at your machine. At fifty dollars or more per hour of labor plus the cost of parts, your bill can quickly add up. During busy seasons a repair shop may take weeks to repair your machine. Before any of that you must load the heavy equipment into your car or pay expensive pickup/delivery charges. Will they fix it right the first time?

With some basic mechanical ability and a few common tools you can often do the job yourself, saving money and time. Start by reading the machine’s owner’s manual. There you’ll find important safety and warranty information, operating instructions and maintenance procedures. If the solution to your problem isn’t found there then find the machine’s make and model number. Often these numbers are stamped directly into the engine’s cover, or they may be located on a sticker or tag attached to the engine. There may be separate model numbers for the engine and for the chassis or “body” of the machine.

Use your machine’s make and model number to obtain the correct service manual. Many of the same service manuals that professional small engine mechanics use are readily available via the Internet and are quite inexpensive. Some online stores offer a wide selection of service manuals in a number of formats including paper, downloadable electronic PDF, VHS video and CD-ROM. These manuals are quite detailed yet are written at a fairly basic level. They contain important safety information, adjustment procedures, troubleshooting tips and specifications in addition to step-by-step repair instructions. The service manual will easily pay for itself on the first job.

After using the service manual to diagnose your machine’s problem, decide if it is something that you can repair yourself. Some problems require specials tools or are covered under the machine’s warranty and these repairs are best left to a professional. Many common problems however are easy to fix yourself. Replacing a clogged air filter for example is quite simple and takes just minutes. Replacement parts are available online and at local dealers that support your brand of equipment.

So the next time your lawnmower won’t start, don’t run to the local repair shop. If you’re the least bit handy, consider trying to fix it yourself. Not only can you save money and time, but you’ll also get the satisfaction that comes from repairing your own power equipment.

Dan Batrams is a professional mechanic at M&D Mower and Appliance, the Web’s leading retailer of parts and accessories for power equipment. He is certified to perform factory-authorized warranty service for many popular brands of outdoor power equipment and power tools. Visit http://www.M-and-D.com for free technical help and expert customer service.

Do you feel that you don’t have time to cook? Do you like using technology in cooking? Are you a health freak? If yes, this is what you are looking for. Microwave Cooking – The wonder of technology making life in the kitchen easy, healthy and beautiful! As everyone, even I love cooking with a microwave not only because it is easy, but because I have bought one recently. Not every one knows how to use a microwave. I have an aunt who got a microwave as a gift which she uses only to roast ‘Papads’. But it is not designed only for that. Microwave is a gift to cooking. Even I am not an expert when it comes to Microwave Cooking. After some researching, I came up with this mini guide which may come handy and will be useful.

Why use Microwave?

As you might be aware of Microwave cooking is

-Easy

-Healthy, as the nutrients are preserved.

-Quick, hurray! we have more time.

Not all food can be prepared using Microwave. Only few Microwaves well i.e. cooks well. Using food that are not suited for microwaving can not only spoil the recipe, but also damage the microwave oven itself! It is a costly mistake.Take care!

Food that can be cooked in Microwave:

-Fish

-Whole fruits and Vegetables

-All Poultry

-Sauces and custard

Food to avoid:

-Do not try to hard boil eggs. That is not going to happen with microwave oven.

-Batters and Pancakes

-Roasting large turkeys/Hams as it will get cooked unevenly

-Do not try to deep fry!

Cleaning:

This is one of the most important and the most easiest work as far as this appliance is concerned. You can clean in minutes.

-Use Soft Sponges or cloth to clean

-Use dish washing liquid

-Deodorize by keeping the door open for some time and cleaning with baking soda dissolved in warm water.

-Another simple way to deodorize (Which I normally do) is by using the below recipe.

1 cup of water

2 slices of lemon OR few mixed spices (like cinnamon stick,bay leave etc)

Heat on high for 2 to 3 min or until the water is boiling. Now remove the water

and you are left with a fresh smelling new microwave.

Cooking Equipment:

Every time when I use a vessel in microwave oven, I get worried if I am using the right one as using the wrong dishes might spoil your oven. Here are a few you can use,

-Glass-ceramic

-Porcelain

-oven proof glass bowls and dishes

-Casseroles

-Plastic containers which are marked oven/dishwasher safe

Do not use:

-any metal container

-recycled paper

-Plastics that are not marked as oven safe.

Now a days we have even cake pans, loaf pans and baking molds suitable for microwaving.

Mostly round containers are preferred to rectangle or square shaped containers for microwave cooking. The corners get more microwave energy than the center so round is the best shape to cook evenly.

Test your container:

Are you still skeptical in using your container for microwaving? Then do the following test,

Fill the dish/vessel you want to test with cold water

Heat on high for 1 minute

Now check,

If the water is hot and the dish is cold – The dish is safe

If the Dish is hot and water is still cold – No way! Don’t use this vessel

General Microwave cooking – Tips and Techniques that can used to cook any food.

- Cover the food while cooking. It helps in cooking evenly and faster.

- Wrap bread with absorbing paper to avoid moisture on the top.

- Arrange the food so that the center has food that needs less heat to cook and the corners have parts that need more heat to cook.

- Pierce the food with toothpick so that it helps in cooking faster.

- Stir the food occasionally as directed in the recipe.

- Always under cook as food still gets cooked during the standing time.

- Always follow the recipe.

Few How to :

You might be wondering for what else we can use Microwave oven. Do not worry here comes my favorite part which makes our work easy,

How to Peel Tomato:

Pour 2 cups of boiling water in a microwave safe bowl. Add 2 tomatoes and heat on high for 45 – 60 sec till the skin splits. Cool them and peel the tomatoes with ease.

How to Garlic:

Place 2 -3 cloves on oven floor and heat on high for 15-30 sec. Remove and peel with ease.

How to cook beans:

Pre soak the beans as usual and cook them in a large container, giving space for them to expand.

How to Steam vegetables:

Place them in a bowl with little water, they get cooked with the help of the steam. If you use closed bowls, it gets cooked fast.

To Dos for cooking conventional recipe using Microwave:

We generally go with the same recipe for our favorite food and cooking with microwave needs some modification for the taste to come out right.

- Use less water than you will use generally. For example if your general recipe

needs 1 cup of water, for microwave cooking, use 1/2 to 3/4 cup of water.

- Add more spices

- Add salt after the food is cooked

- Reduce the cooking time by at least half.

This is just the basics. There are a lot more to learn for mastering the art of microwave cooking, which , I strongly feel, comes only with practice. So why wait? Buy a microwave oven, cook and enjoy!!!

Iam Sangeeth Raghunathan. I am a software engineer who is now a full time homemaker. I love blogging,crocheting and cooking. My Food Blog helps and tries to inspire people to cook and I also share my views on other topics through Scribbling Scribe, my new blog.

As the summer months roll in and the war in the Middle East continues to rage on, fuel costs are steadily rising. Whatever reason you want to attribute the higher costs of fuel, it’s a simple fact that the prices are going up, and this could affect more than just automobiles. It also affects your mower. However, fuel efficient mowers are becoming all the rage now, and they’re making an impact on consumers and the fuel market. Small motors that are used in mowers are easy to maintain with the right knowledge or the right mechanic. They won’t suck up so much fuel as older models would have, which will save you a pretty penny in this time of expensive fuel and rising costs.

Mowers use small engines, which are relatively simple to build and maintain. They also use a lot less fuel than larger automobile engines. There are a couple reasons for this, one of which involves the fact that small engines are two-stroke, while larger engines are four-stroke. This means that it needs half the rotations in order for the fuel to spark and create the energy needed to power the mower, or whatever equipment that’s being run on the small engine. This helps with fuel maintenance while other aspects of a small engine simply make it easier to run. For one, since small engines don’t create as much heat, they can be cooled by the surrounding air, while larger engines need cooling liquid to run through it in order to properly cool down.

While power and performance are still important for mowers, manufacturers are spending more time and focus on fuel efficiency as a response to growing cost of fuel. Diesel fuels, which have always been used in small engines, such as the ones that are used in lawn mowers have always added to the machine’s fuel economy. Diesel contains greater energy content than gasoline, giving it more a bang, while also being generally cheaper than gasoline.

Conventional diesel engines, such as what is used in many mowers, can also be run by a form of alternative fuel, called biodiesel fuel. This reusable, natural fuel is made from vegetable oil and animal fat. It runs just fine in diesel engines and is much more fuel efficient. Not to mention there are numerous environmental pluses to using this type of fuel in addition to is being cheap to produce.

Propane is another fuel type that is being worked with by manufacturers, who are using this alternative fuel source to power newer models of mowers. Propane is cheaper and can be used to power many types of mowers, making it a popular new choice for people looking to save money in response to the rising costs of gasoline. Propane is also the most widely available type of alternative fuel and is great for the environmentally-conscious types, as it has much less noxious emissions than other fuel types.

A recent development in small engine mower technology is the addition of gasoline engines with Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) systems. This technology, which has been used by Kohler small engines, a leader in EFI, helps with fuel economy in traditional carbureted engines. The monetary savings you get when using Kohler engines that enable EFI technology is reason enough to consider it as a fuel efficient new energy for a motor. For every $3.00 gallon of gasoline used in a mower, EFI technology will make it efficient enough to actually save $0.75. That’s an impressive feat, leading a number of top name brands to use Kohler engines in their products.

So, as price continues to rise on the fuel front, mower manufacturers are coming up with new technologies and alternative fuel sources. It’s changing the face of small engines and mower technology, and it’s very possible these changes will make a lasting influence on the fuel economy of mowers. It will be only a matter of time to see if these cheaper alternatives will stick around, if and when gas prices fall.

-Ben Anton, 2007

Ben Anton lives in Portland, OR and writes for Repower Specialists, LTD.
Read more about available fuel efficient small engine options.

Visit the Repower Specialists site specializing in golf cart repair and repowering.

The popularity of fly fishing has been a hobby that a lot of people like it very much and it is growing day by day. Anyone can now participate in fly fishing sports irrespective of their abilities or other differences, which is why now there are so many fly fishing lovers. You should be able to understand the techniques as well as equipment required. Followings are 2 things you must know to be successful in fly fishing.

A) Fly Fishing Basics

To improve your fly fishing skill, you must first go for the proper Fly fishing basics course. Once you have the basic skill, you should be able to catch fish easily at every place.

One of the fly fishing basic skill that the course will teach you is the reel and rod. The rod used by fly fishers is different from regular rods. They are thinner and taller and each rod is an assured weight. A four or five weight rod is used to catch pan size and trout fish. Rods has a lot of size, vary from small to large rods. The large rods usually use in ocean fishing. By selecting the rods correctly, it will make your fishing easily.

Another fly fishing basic is the reel, the reel type is no the same from the normal one. It’s something that you should inquire about at every fly fishing store in order to understand.

Other Fly Fishing Basics

Next, is the fishing line, it is also completely different from normal one. The fly fishing line is totally visible and is much larger in diameter. Some fly lines will float on water and others are made to sink in water. A tippet (a monofilament line) is tied at the end of the fly line. This is what really does the fishing. It is about six feet long and the lure is tied to the end of the fly line. In this way, the fish is not able to see the fly line. In actual fly fishing, we use artificial flies in place of large heavy lures.

Usually, the lure used for fly fishing isn’t a true lure.

B) Fishing Flies: Many Varieties and Widely Available

For beginners knowing the type of flies and during what part of the year they can be productive is of great importance in succeeding with fly fishing. The fly fishing come in many Varieties models and is available in many of the fishing shops.

Types of Flies and When to Use its

Do you know fish are not stupid? At least, not for the bigger ones, if not they will not grow to such huge sizes by being dumb. The large fish, usually know that a nymph floating on the surface is out of place, the dry flies are usually to intend to emulate bugs normally found on the surface while nymphs are supposed to look like hard shell bugs and are typically fished near the bottom with little bit or no movement to the fly. For the adult flies, in general should not be around in the early spring. For the Wet flies, there are fished just under the surface, imitating emerging bugs under the surface with twitching of the line making them more attractive to those hungry fishes.

It is however necessary to be able to relate the fishes to the flies as well as the type of water (freshwater or saltwater) that you will be fishing in. Most flies are one of a kind and form the most important items of the fishing equipment, and you will surely need to take extra care of the files after having purchased the files because it is essential not to get your fly fishing flies crush or entangled, them accidentally due to their fragile nature and delicate.

It is thus essential for the fishers to keep the flies safely stored in suitable fly boxes, which must be kept absolutely dry after every use. In order to dry the fly box, you should try and air-dry which will prevent the flies from losing their shape, or hooks becoming corroded. Since the flies have practically lightness they can simply be crushed, mean you need to prepare more spare flies. It is also important that you experiment with the files as well as practice movement of the fly so that you get adept at handling the files.

Another skill knows how to tie the flies is also an art in itself, and you will probably be most acquainted with the Woolly Bugger as well as the Frankenstein fly, and all of the other millions of exotic fly available on the market today. Fishers will most probably be most well familiar with the Woolly Bugger, which is useful in almost all the situations, and is relatively easy to tie as well. Even though you may not get the tying right the first time, with effort, you will ultimately get there and with luck, your Frankenstein Fly will help you even to catch a large sized fish.

Experience greater pleasure

Above are just a 2 things you must know for fly fishing. By study, understanding and knowing the fly fish basic and different type of files use, it will certainly help you catch more fish. Many fly fishing knowledge and basics skill can be achieved thru practicing fishing and learn thru experience. Going for a fly fishing course, learning from an expert or hire a guide for fly fishing is definitely will help you improve your fishing skill. Once you get the entire thing right, you will experience greater pleasure as well as success from this gorgeous sport of fly fishing.

Cindy Heller is a professional writer. Visit Fly Fishing Women to learn more about fly fishing at Rocky Mountain and fly fishing in Key West.